Earlier this month the monkey came home from a Amazon Rainforest Photography Safari and Workshop with Joe McNally and Ari Espay. This is a detailed review of that experience. If you’ve ever considered a “once in a lifetime” journey like this, Kongo urges you to read on. The monkey will let you know everything you need to know to prepare for one of these trips to the jungle.

This workshop was organized by Fancy Girl/Street Boy Productions, an award-winning team that has been organizing photography tours and workshops for over 20 years. The monkey has been on several workshops with them over the years. The details about this Amazon workshop can be found here. The workshop is led by Ari Espay and Liza Politi. Both are highly recognized photographers and videographers. Ari is one of the best street photographers ever. He’s a master lensman, author, and winner of many prestigious prizes. Liza is a renowned photographer, documentarian, world traveller and all-around expert at making things run properly. They are an incredible team.

What We Did

During the workshop we shot in a number of places and spent three days in and around Quito before heading into the Amazon rainforest. We photographed the Rosadex rose farm and then had lunch at Hacienda Compania where we had the opportunity to do photo shoots with the staff.

We visited the Equator museum and learned about the center of the earth.

We visited the famous Otavalo Market in Otavalo for some amazing street photography opportunities.

And we visited a chocolate factory then headed to Old Town Quito for some more street photography. There was an election demonstration going on in the plaza so Kongo had fun taking pictures of a protest, South American style.

But the real purpose of the trip was the Amazon rainforest. We spent five days there photographing birds, animals, jungle, plants, rivers, indigenous people, and each other. It was an amazing time. At night, howler monkeys howl and insects incessantly buzz. Frogs chirp. Night birds call to each other. We slept under mosquito nets in a five-star luxury lodge in the heart of the jungle, sixty miles from the nearest town. We travelled by canoes and hiked through pristine forests of the Yasuní National Park. Naturalists and native guides led us through the forest and helped us learn about the ecosystem of the Amazon. Each day started well before sunrise and lasted until well after dark. During the afternoons when the animals were resting, Joe McNally critiqued our photos and shared his philosophy of photography. We ate gourmet meals, drank Pisco Sours, and talked about taking pictures. Each day involved at least two outings. The monkey took nearly 15,000 images. Of course, many of his shots were blurry, empty branches where a monkey had been only seconds before. But among those many, many images there were a few that the monkey believes captured the spirit of his time in the jungle.

So, the monkey could go on and on and on with the pictures but you get the idea. There were amazing photo opportunities everywhere. The monkey wished he could have found more monkeys. They were elusive and hard to see and they had a bad habit of disappearing into the foliage by the time you could focus. He saw a sloth but it was pretty much a brown blur on a branch. He captured a blurry picture of a black caiman one evening. Birds were best and he caught a lot of birds. People were better. The Kichwa, the indigenous people of the rainforest where Kongo was at, were beautiful. They are kind and gracious to a fault. They’re shy and wonderful all at the same time. Kongo loved them. He seriously considered painting his face with crushed red beetle juice and running naked through the rainforest. Had he stayed another week he would have gone completely native. It was that kind of place.

Where we stayed

In Quito, we stayed and the five-star J.W. Marriott. It’s about 45 minutes from the airport but everything is 45 minutes from the airport. It was close to downtown, had some great restaurants, super comfortable rooms, plenty of WiFi and wonderful service. Breakfast was included with our rooms.

In the jungle we stayed at La Selva Lodge. It’s a five-star ecolodge just off the Napo River about 65 miles from Coca in Eastern Ecuador. The lodge was amazing. The entire lodge was reserved exclusively for our tour. It included all meals. The lodge sits on a good-size lake known as Herron Lake.

Each guest had their own bungalow in the forest. Kongo’s suite had a large king-sized bed, spacious bath and shower, and balcony jutting into the jungle. The walls are screens. You can smell and hear everything going on around you. The monkey slept like a dead banana tree under his mosquito net.

Gourmet meals were prepared by Chef Elvis. Every dinner had four options to choose from. Bernardo at the bar made a mean Pisco Sour. There was a great wine list. Fast Starlink WiFi and cell phone service within a few hundred yards of the lodge were available. There is a dock for loading and unloading into the canoes, a floating swimming pool in the lake (to keep out the caimans and pirahanas) and lounge chairs to enjoy the day. Spa treatments are offered. There is an observation tower in the main lodge and a tall tower about a 20-minute walk away where you can climb above the forest canopy.

Logistics

The tour arranged for airport transfers. Kongo arrived in Quito a few days before the tour started and was met by his driver and taken to the J.W. Marriott. Liza Politi is a master at organizing the details. All the details. She and Ari are famous for their advance scouting long before you arrive. About a week before the tour starts, they arrive on the scene and go to all the places we plan to visit to make sure nothing has changed. This attention to detail means that there are rarely, if any, surprises. We couldn’t have a drink our last night in Quito because Ecuador has a law about drinking during elections. Who knew?

Liza keeps a detailed schedule and everyone is informed well in advance about requirements, suggested clothing, recommended camera gear, times, and meeting places. We all communicated via WhatsApp. A month before heading to Ecuador she and Ari hosted a Zoom meeting to go over all the details. We were kept well-informed with packing lists, reading lists, and facts about our journey.

The tour included roundtrip airfare between Quito and the jungle. It’s a 30-minute flight from the capital to Coca. If you’re lucky enough to snag a window seat you might catch a glimpse of the glaciers on the Andes mountains. In Coca we were met by staff from La Selva lodge who grabbed all our luggage and transported us to the nearby riverboat dock. From there it is a 2 and a half motorized canoe trip down the Napo River.

We travel 65 miles from Coca on the Napo to where La Selva keeps a docking facility. From there we walk about 100 yards through a jungle trail for the final leg of our journey to the lodge in a paddle canoe.

All our bags are taken in another canoe that left Coca before we did so that when we arrive at the lodge our luggage is already in our rooms. After a briefing by Miguel, the lodge manager, we settle in and get ready for our first outing in late afternoon.

We travelled around Quito and the outlaying areas in a luxury bus.

What We Learned

Joe McNally is a wonderful teacher. As is Ari Espay. Each day we spent about three hours critiquing photos taken on the trip. Each person had to submit 10 images and Joe would go through them in detail. Joe’s critiques are one of the monkey’s favorite parts about these workshops. He will drill down to subject matter, lighting, framing, composition, and overall likability. Don’t take pictures of dead trees or dogs or bees. Joe is helping you find the essence of the place you were at. It’s not about snapshots or postcards.

Kongo learned a lot about how to mentally prepare for an image. How to be prepared for something that is going to happen in front of you and how you can stay on top of the action going on around you. He teaches you to get close. Then get closer. And closer still. Get beyond your comfort level and work with your subject.

One of the most rewarding times Kongo had on this trip was pretty much a one-on-one with Joe while we photographed Kichwa women preparing a traditional meal for us. Joe has a magical way of working with subjects, putting them at ease, placing them in the right light, and encouraging them to reveal themselves without them even realizing it.

Demographics: Who Came on the Tour

There were eighteen of us on this expedition to the Amazon. The average age ranged from mid-fifties to 80. It was a great group. Two men from Canada, a couple from Istanbul, and the rest of us were from all over the United States. This was a well-travelled group and seasoned workshop veterans. Almost everyone had been with Ari, Liza, and Joe on previous workshops. There were three couples and the rest were singles. Often on these types of adventures there is THAT guy or THAT girl that you steer clear of. Not the case with this group. We all got along great and new friendships were made. That’s one of the great side benefits of an outing like this. You come back with more than you left with.

Guides and Naturalists

The guides are essential in the Amazon. Without them you are unlikely to see many animals or understand the ecosystem you’re in the midst of. Our guides and naturalists were amazing. They know the rainforest. They make bird calls. They handle the poison frogs. The look out for you on the hikes. They help carry your gear when you start to flag. They carry ponchos in case it rains. They do all the paddling in the canoes. They can name all the animals and plants and tell you their history and role in food chain. Without the guides you would literally be lost and up the creek without a paddle.

We divided into smaller groups for our daily excursions and in addition to our guide and naturalist, either Joe, Ari, or Liza was in the group to help out and provide guidance about shooting. Liza turns out to have a remarkably sharp eye for spotting animals and birds.

Photography Gear

So what kind of gear do you take on a trip like this. Everything. Well, almost everything. Of course, you have to balance out what you “maybe might” need with weight, what will fit in your backpack, luggage weight limits and things like that. Kongo thought long and hard before packing and it took him a week to make his photography kit. He made some compromises and missed a few lenses that didn’t make the cut but overall he was pretty happy with what he brought to the Amazon.

Kongo took two camera bodies. He packed his Canon 5D MK IV and his old Canon 7D. In many instances you want to be able to quickly switch from one lens to another and you really don’t have time to root around in your bag for a lens. Having a long lens on one body and a wider, medium lens on another makes it easy to switch back and forth. Long lenses are essential in the Amazon if you want to get images of treetop monkeys or faraway toucans. Kongo’s 7D has a crop sensor (1..5 factor) so he mostly put his long lens on it to boost the effective range. Kongo’s long lens was a Canon 70-200 MM f2.8 L and he frequently used a 2X extender. On the 7D, that turned his lens into an effective 600 MM reach. With the extender, the lens is a bit soft at maximum range but some post process sharpening software can generally take care of the fuzziness. His other “go to” lens was the Canon 24-105 MM f4 L. He also used his 16-35 MM f4 L for wider shots and landscapes. You will frequently find yourself in low light environments so you need the fastest lens you can carry. Kongo frequently was shooting with an ISO of 6000. He regretted not packing his 500 MM which is sharp and on the 7D gives him a reach of 750 MM. It’s also big and heavy which was the deciding factor in leaving it behind, but there were times that he wished he had it with him.

Kongo lugged along his Speedlight, transmitter, and collapsable soft box. He didn’t use any of it. Natural light was fine in almost every case.

Kongo brought along some stackable macro lens tubes, hoping to do a some macrophotography in the jungle. He didn’t use those either. There just wasn’t time to stop on the trail and mess around with the macro tubes. He could have played with them around the lodge where there were lots of amazing flowers, but he was just too tired after long days on the trail. He was also going to do some astrophotography on one exceptionally clear night but he fell asleep. So sad.

He brought his tripod and used it. When you set up at the top of the observation tower or in a blind waiting for scarlet macaws you need a tripod and remote shutter trigger.

Seven spare batteries, a dozen cards, two card readers, his laptop, two flash drives, associated chargers, cables, and cases rounded out his kit. He packed it all in a ThinkTank airport bag that he got for Christmas. The tripod wouldn’t fit in that bag so he packed it in his larger luggage. On the trail he used his Manfrotto camera backpack and a ThinkTank Press sling bag.

Some of the group packed a lot more gear than Kongo. There were some big lenses and other gadgets and, in comparison, the monkey was pretty lean and light.

What to Wear

Now normally the monkey doesn’t pay much attention to what he wears on these trips. This was a bit different. There is a major temperature change between Quito and the jungle not to mention the altitude adjustment. Kongo packed long-sleeve microfiber shirts that he wore everywhere. He had 10 of them and they roll up into a tight ball in the suitcase. They keep you warm and the bugs at bay. He had four pair of light-weight, water-resistant pants. in neutral colors. They are easy to rinse out after a day on the trails and dried quickly. He also brought a Marmot rain jacket. The lodge provides rubber knee-high Wellington boots for when you’re in the jungle and rain ponchos during wet weather. You need knee-high thick socks with cushioning for the boots. Kongo packed a ball cap but he really doesn’t like hats all that much and hates “hat hair” so he didn’t wear it that much. He still has thick hair so he doesn’t burn on the top of his head. The monkey was lucky to only get sprinkled on a few times. The weather in Ecuador was pretty perfect.

Add Ons

Kongo arrived in Quito a few days early and took advantage of the extra days in Ecuador to visit the Mindo Cloud Forest. This was an amazing day trip that Kongo arranged with Tours By Locals. The trip included a lovely guide and private car transportation. If you have an extra day in Ecuador, you really need to visit the Cloud Forest for a different perspective on the fascinating ecosystem of this beautiful country.

Read Kongo’s blog post about his trip to the cloud forest.

Workshop Cost

So, by this point you’re wondering what all this might cost. Well, it’s not cheap, as you likely imagined. Here’s a breakdown.

• Workshop cost: $9,945
• Roundtrip airfare between Los Angeles and Quito: $1,700
• Travel insurance: $1,000
• Tips at La Selva: $350
• Miscellaneous hotel charges: $150
• Shopping/souvenirs: $150
• All the other stuff bought from Amazon online: $500
• International phone plan: $90
• Extra day trip to Mindo Cloud Forest: $300
• Grand total: $14,185

Was it worth it? Absolutely, as far as Kongo is concerned. Naturally, there are some hidden costs. Mrs. Kongo was never going to go to the jungle. Never. But, she is taking a trip to Portugal with her sister in a few months so there’s that. Kongo doesn’t like the term “trip of a lifetime” but if anything fits into that category, this seems to fit. Would the monkey do it again. Absolutely!

What’s Included in this tour anyway?

• All accommodations in 5 star hotels
• On location classes, demos, and assistance in the field
• There is a 6 to 1 ratio for participants to instructor
• 5 Classes/edit & critique sessions
• 7 Dinners
• 6 Lunches
• 9 Breakfasts
• Roundtrip airfare from Quito to Coca
• Internal transportation to and from locations
• Travel, landscape, architecture, and people photography

What’s not included:

• Round trip airfare to and from Quito, Ecuador
• Transportation to and from airports
• Additional nights before or after the start and finish of the Workshop
• Travel Insurance
• Tips to guides and naturalists and staff at La Selva

Traveling in Ecuador

Ecuador is a wonderful place to visit. The people are amazing, the sights are awesome, and the cost, once you’re there, is inexpensive. Ecuador sits on the equator so there aren’t any seasons there. Some months have more rain than others but sunrise and sunset are the same every day. Quito, at over 10,000 feet is cool but at that altitude you can burn easily so make sure you have sun block. The Amazon is hot and muggy. And they don’t call it the rainforest for nothing. It rains a lot there. Kongo was lucky not to get rained on. His visit in February was just after the rainy season but there is an ongoing drought in the jungle. That said, the rainforest is not uncomfortable. The monkey wore long sleeves every day. After a steamy hike through the forest a cold shower and fresh clothes is welcome.

What about bugs, tropical diseases, malaria, and all the other horror stories. Forget about them. Sure, you need to be smart about protecting yourself. Kongo wore a citrenella bracelet and used insect repellent wipes over exposed skin. He’s happy to say he didn’t get a single bite his entire time in the jungle. He didn’t see any snakes except for one small boa. No giant anacondas. There were some jaguar tracks near the lodge but the monkey didn’t see any. There are thorns and prickly things in the forest that can cause you problems. Don’t touch things you know nothing about. Don’t step on bullet ants. Innocent looking plants or bugs can carry nasty surprises. Pay attention to your guide. It’s important to stay on the trail. Always carry “Wet Wipes” and be smart about what you eat. If you have a finicky stomach, eat accordingly. Always wear your rubber boots in the jungle with your pants tucked in. This keeps unwanted critters from crawling up your pants to places you don’t want them.

Ecuador’s currency is the dollar. That makes it easy to figure out what you’re paying for.

Like any big city, Quito has its share of crime. Be alert when you’re out and about in touristy areas. Travel with a buddy who can watch your back when your nose is deep in the camera. Pay attention to your surroundings.

Is This Trip For You?

If you are in reasonable shape and love photography this trip is definitely for you, but keep in mind that the jungle is not ADA compliant. You need to be able to climb in and out of canoes, take an hour hike with your camera gear, climb observation towers, and be able to handle the altitude in Quito. Take it easy for the first few days. Good balance is important.

This is not an iPhone photo workshop. You will need a decent camera body and a mix of lenses that are appropriate for what you will see. Don’t buy a brand new camera just before getting on the airplane. It’s important to know your camera, what settings work for you, and how to shoot in manual and other modes like Av and Tv, depending on the situation.

You don’t need to be an advanced photographer for this adventure. In fact, this is a great place for a beginner to improve their skills and you will get lots of gentle help from Joe and Ari and Liza as you go along. The other photographers will also help you out. It’s a friendly group that supports each other.

Sure, it’s expensive but consider where you are and what you’re doing.

If you’re interested in taking this trip in 2026 you should contact Liza and let her know. Kongo doesn’t know if they have a trip in the planning stages but with enough interest you too can end up sleeping with howler monkeys sooner than you think.

Kongo Rates this Tour FIVE BANANAS. His highest rating.

If you have any questions please let Kongo know. He loves hearing from simians all over the world.

Travel safe. Have fun.